Water this clear means the location has become a hotspot for snorkelers, with maximum visibility for seeing all the beauty on offer under the surface. If snorkelling isn’t your thing, then you can also rent kayaks and boats for a romantic or adventurous journey into the open. Showers and toilets aplenty mean that you can also stay here as long as you like; no longer limited by the need for bathroom breaks or a quick clean.
Haven on Earth have a great history with this location in particular, with apartments and smart developments up and down the coastline. This also means we can answer any questions you may have about the area, along with providing any recommendations you may need - so don’t be afraid to say hello.
Given that Catalonia is a region that overlooks the entire of the Mediterranean Ocean, it shouldn’t come as much of a shock that crystalline water, white sandy shores and picture-postcard landscapes await holiday-makers who make the trip to the region each season.
In Catalonia there are no fewer than 89 Blue Flag beaches. Girona alone is home to 28 Blue Flag beaches. This makes the region plentiful in sandy shores and rich in abundant seascapes, often extending as far as the eye can see.
With such a wealth of choice, holiday-makers staying in Catalonia – and Aiguablava in particular – are spoilt for choice. Translated into English, Aiguablava literally means ‘blue waters’, and this tells you all that you need to know about the beaches in the immediate vicinity.
Visit Aiguablava and you’ll discover expansive family-friendly beaches are complemented by coves nestled into the natural landscape with a sandy strip, perfect for secluded sunbathing. Motor powered water sports are commonplace on the horizon, as is sailing and coastal excursions.
There are many beaches in Aiguablava that will pique your interest, leave you awestruck and returning again and again. Here are just a few of the beaches that you should make a point to visit when staying in and around Aiguablava.
With its intense blue water, tranquil waves, and plethora of amenities a mere stone’s throw from the beach, it’s not entirely unsurprising that Platja Aiguablava is renowned as being the perfect beach to host families visiting the area.
The southernmost beach in Begur, being less than ten minutes from the centre of Aiguablava, this highly popular beach is renowned for hosting water sports in the summer and for cultivating a warm, family-friendly atmosphere.
Feel the fine sand between your toes as you walk along 80-meters of beautifully-appointed natural landscape. Despite its popularity, Aiguablava beach doesn’t get too overcrowded. In the height of the summer season, you may want to stake your claim on the shoreline earlier than you would in the early or late season, however it’s highly unlikely that you’ll be unable to get a spot on the sand, regardless of the time of year.
Venture up a rocky ledge and you’ll discover the Parador Nacional de Aiguablava. Built under the mandate of General Franco and inaugurated in 1966 to boost tourism un the area, this hostel stands proudly on the landscape and accommodates guests all year round.
Platja de Pals
A short twenty-minute journey from Aiguablava is Platja de Pals. One of the longest beaches on the Costa Brava (spanning three and a half kilometres in total), Platja de Pals has two distinct aspects – Platja Gran to the south and Platja del Grau to the north.
With wonderful views of the Medes Islands, pretty pine forests, dunes and reeds and fine golden sand Platja de Pals is an idyllic location to relax, take in the breath-taking natural beauty, or even indulge in water sports or play beach volleyball.
Platja del Grau is secluded and features quiet, shallow waters and is an ideal location for families. The Rec del Moli river mouth forms a natural border between the beach and La Fonollera (l’Estartit), stretching to the golf landscape.
Venture onto Platja Gran and you’ll be greeted by coarse sand and deeper waters. Mostly untouched, Platja Gran is primarily used by sun-seekers and holiday-makers as a naturist beach.
Platja del Raco
One of two city beaches on the Cullera borders, Platja del Raco is a popular surfing and windsurfing spot which is often frequented by those with persistent adrenaline pumping through their veins and holiday-makers who like to venture into the ocean and stretch their muscles.
It’s not entirely uncommon to experience windsurfers and surfers fly past you when in the water as they ride the waves across the wild sea and prolonged break. Perfect for families and action-orientated individuals, Platja del Raco is, in some ways, the very antithesis of a small, secluded and quiet beach.
Set foot on the shores and you’ll likely encounter a game of beach football or volleyball. You don’t need to be sports-mad to enjoy the picturesque surroundings, though if you are, visit Platja del Raco and you’ll likely encounter a kindred spirit or two.
Meticulously maintained, Platja del Raco is typically at its peak busiest during the months of July-September. A popular tourist destination spot with Spaniards who come to the coast to relax and unwind, Platja del Raco offers a unique coastal experience which, though it may not be for everyone, is certainly an experience to be savoured for those attracted to its unique ambiance.
So, there you have it. Each of these beaches are a stone’s throw from Aiguablava and offer a completely different experience for holiday-makers. What’s clear is that whether you want to savour a quiet coastal oasis or ride the waves of the Mediterranean, you’ll find the ideal spot when staying in Aiguablava.
The famed rocky Costa Brava coastline is no more conspicuous as it is in Aiguablava. This small bay welcomes a wealth of holiday-makers from across the continent every single year who migrate to Catalonia for a few weeks to bask in its warm, welcoming climate, escaping to an idyllic coastal oasis, if for a short time.
Beyond the exquisite sandy beaches, slew of restaurants and beachside eateries, and landscapes of profound natural beauty, Aiguablava offers much for holiday-makers to engage themselves in when staying in the bay.
So, whether you’re intent on relaxing shoreside on a calming beach, fancy exploring the local headland or strolling through one of the many local towns, absorbing its history, heritage and architecture indicative of the region, you’ll find much to keep you occupied when visiting Aiguablava. Here’s just and smattering of the attractions that make Aiguablava so popular.
Carrer de Vera
Anyone hoping to get a real feel for the ambiance of the Aigua Blava area needs only visit Carrer de Vera. An area rich in Catalan heritage, Carrer de Vera features striking Indian homes that pre-date the seventeenth century, beautifully-maintained cobblestone streets, bustling shops and veritable shrines to gastronomy.
A stone’s throw from Aiguablava, Carrer de Vera offers ample opportunity to discover much about Catalan culture. Marked by simple and neat whitewashed facades and the nostalgia of Andalusia are rich in abundance, as is the history if the local area.
Those with a keen interest in or wish to explore and learn much of the local region will find much to absorb on the Carrer de Vera. Especially indicative of the history of the nineteenth century when tens of thousands of bergurenses migrated to the Andalusian village of Vera in search of coral, Carre de Vera is an attraction that holiday-makers should make a point to visit.
Explore the Bay’s Beaches
Transparent water, charming Spanish scenery and idyllic beaches await all who visit Aiguablava. One of the most-admired and peaceful spots on the Costa Brava, it should come as little surprise that the region welcomes thousands of continental tourists every single year.
The selection of seascapes in the region is one of the primary attractions. Holiday-makers have a few different shoreside locales to choose from, each with its own and identity, quintessential to the area.
Cala Aigua Xelida has long been confirmed as a cove of consummate Costa Brava beauty. Rich in pine trees and surrounded between rocky cliff formations, Cala Aigua Xelida may only be 30 metres long, but every square inch is delicately enriched by its picturesque landscape.
Playa Fonda is one of he more-famed beaches in the region and a wonderful beach to visit at sunset. Such is its popularity, the beach is often crowded, arriving early and staking your claim in the sand by laying a towel or placing a deckchair is essential.
Cala de Tamariu is situated a stone’s throw from the Port de la Selva, three kilometres from Parador. Anyone hoping to while away the afternoon hours in a peaceful coastline setting needs to come and visit this beach. Originally a fishing nucleus, today the beach is renowned for its transparent water and the surrounding trees from which it draws its name.
Cala de Aiguablava, Port de Fornells, is surrounded by lush pine forests and features a hotel complex that overlooks the crystalline Mediterranean water. Perfect for families, Cala de Aiguablava, Port de Fornells is renowned for its coastal walks, marvellous natural beauty and the local cuisine served at one of the many eateries.
Cap de Creus Natural Park
The north of the Costa Brava in the province of Girona is a selection of idyllic natural beauty locations that come as close of an oasis as you’re likely to find anywhere on the continent. Cap de Creus Natural Park is one such location.
Featuring hidden coves, lovely surrounding natural foliage, untamed landscape that’s been shaped y the elements, Cap de Creus offers endless possibilities for rambling excursions. Perfect for an afternoon exploring the landscape, you’ll discover some of the best Instagram photo opportunities will be found at Cap de Creus.
The stunning scenery becomes increasingly stark as you approach the cape. Traverse the landscape and you’ll discover a rugged terrain, with plenty of rock formations. Anyone with an interest in geology or likes a hiking challenge will find Cap de Creus Natural Park a great place to visit.
Unusual rock formations and little coves are dotted across the landscape. Pathways feature evolving terrains. Take some time to explore the area and you’ll discover so much more than the lighthouse, restaurant and café that so many ramblers set off to reach – you’ll discover peace and tranquillity amongst the wild landscape of the region.
These are but a few of the attractions Aiguablava has to offer. In truth, there’s much for holiday-makers to see and do in and around the local area. Visit Aiguablava and you’ll discover a richness to the region that demands to be explored.
The small bay of Aiguablava on the Costa Brava embodies what a sedate, laid-back, traditional coastal holiday should. The nearby towns of Begur and Parafrugell offer ample opportunity for holiday-makers to explore quaint shops, elegant and rustic eateries, and learn of the rich history of the region – but so too does Aiguablava.
The antithesis of a contemporary resort complex, Aiguablava is famed for being a bay devoted to maritime activities. A popular place for sailing and motor boats, cast your eyes towards the horizon and you’ll see a blue ocean expanse with a wealth of motorised boats and small yachts.
Indicative of a traditional Catalan town, Aiguablava gives holiday-makers the opportunity to sample what life is like for the people who live here – and, most importantly, it’s a place when one can completely reinvigorate one’s mind, body and spirit in a tranquil oasis that is as restorative as it is scenic.
But what is there to do in Aiguablava? What are the key points of interest that draw holiday-makers here year after year? Keep reading below to discover the activities to indulge in and areas to visit when staying in self-catering accommodation the vicinity of the bay.
The Jewish Quarter Tour
Tread the same path as one of Spain’s most important historic communities as you tour through Girona’s Jewish Quarter. Discover the fascinating blend of Jewish, Roman and Medieval heritage, which combined has provided to give the area the distinctive identity it enjoys to this day.
The tour starts in Placa de Sant Feliu. Here you can admire one of the best preserved ancient Jewish neighbourhoods in Europe. Known locally as the ‘Call’, the heart of Girona was once home to more than a thousand inhabitants during the Middle Ages – and they have left an indelible imprint on the city that has endured to this day.
Explore the pretty and narrow streets of the Jewish Quarter, and discover the hometown of Nachmanides, the Medieval Kabbalistic philosopher, physician and Sephardic Rabbi. Visit the sites of three different synagogues and learn why the city is such an important part of Jewish history.
You’ll learn about the ancient customs and traditions of the Jewish people and the design of their houses. A visit to the Museum of Jewish History will teach visitors about their way of life and explain the history of the Expulsion of the Jews in 1492, and how this act ended 600 years of cooperation and harmony.
Costa Brava & Medieval Towns Tour Itinerary
Meeting in the historic centre of Girona, you can take a guided tour of the quaint villages and Medieval tours around the Costa Brava. Extending beyond Aiguablava, this guided tour allows you to learn much of the culture, history and heritage of the entire region – a great day out for history aficionados and the curious alike to enjoy.
The first stop on the Medieval town itinerary are the coastal towns of Llafranc and Calella, which are famed for their small, sandy coves and fishing traditions. Explore the landscape through the clifftop paths before surveying the Medieval town of Begur from a clifftop vantage point.
Once you’ve explored Llafranc amd Calella, you’ll get to visit Pals. Romanesque towers, meandering plants moats and walls, that have stood for thousands of years make Pals one of the prettiest preserved Medieval towns on the Costa Brava.
A quick stop for lunch gives you the opportunity to sample the signature dish of the region – rice casserole. Once you’ve lapped the dish up, you can tour artisan market stalls before reaching Torre de las Horas, an ancient tower and the last remaining vestige of the Castle of Pals that was destroyed in the 15th Century.
A stone’s throw from Pals is one of the best-preserved Medieval towns in Catalonia, Peratallada. From here, you’ll head back to Girona, stopping at La Bisbal d’Emporda to admire the traditional ceramic pottery which has made the region famous.
The whole tour takes the better part of a day and is a historic tour that you won’t soon forget.
The House of Lord Puig
Mere minutes from Aiguablava in the neighbouring town of Begur is one of the more-frequented historic houses in Catalonia – the House of Lord Puig.
An example of Indian-style architecture and situated in the historic centre of Begur, the House of Lord Puig is a fine example of Catalan heritage harking back to centuries past in Catalonia. Located at the corner of Church Square on Calle Ventura Sabater, the house was built in 1872 by Sebastian i Carreras in 1872. It features sombre facades contrasting with an exquisitely beautiful garden and archway gallery reminiscent of the Esteve i Cruanas Square.
Recommended by the tourist office in Begur, the house is one of the more frequented points of interest in the region, welcoming thousands of curious holiday-makers every single year.
These are but a few of the points of interest in Aiguablava and the neighbouring towns. There’s much more to offer. So, whether you’re a student of Catalan history or enjoy educational tours, you’ll find much to keep you occupied when visiting Aiguablava.
Over the last few decades, gentrification and globalisation have altered the traditional landscape of Aiguablava and many of the neighbouring towns across the Costa Brava. Big brand chains have opened outlets across the whole of the region, attracting holiday-makers and enticing them to buy products perfect for their summer holiday, as memento’s or to take pride of place in their house when they return home.
Frequently cited as one of the more luxurious European holiday destinations, it, perhaps, shouldn’t be overly surprising to learn that when visiting the region you should expect to encounter fashion boutiques, brand supermarkets and a wealth of retail outlets catering to the whims of the affluent.
However, despite the evolving commercial bricks and mortar landscape, Aiguablava is still home to a smattering of quaint coastal shops, indicative of the ambiance of the area. A popular sailing and seafood destination, Aiguablava has retained much of its original character and charm – something that’s reflected in the shops that dot the landscape.
Interested in learning of the shopping opportunities in and around Aiguablava? Keep reading below to discover more.
Parador Hotel, Aiguablava Gift Shop
A four-star hotel set on a rocky promontory jutting into the Mediterranean, the Parador Hotel is one of the most distinctive landmarks in Aiguablava. Nestled amongst an unspoilt natural environment, the hotel welcomes guests from across the continent and beyond throughout the summer holiday season.
Centrally-located to provide guests with easy access to Aiguablava and enjoy all that the town has to offer, including summer concerts, swimming, sailing, and the local golf courses, the Parador Hotel is one of the more popular hotels in Aiguablava.
Accommodation aside, the hotel Parador has a range of amenities, including a restaurant and a gift shop. Looking to buy a small trinket for someone back at home? Pop into the gift shop and browse the collection of gifts synonymous with Aiguablava.
Moreover, if you want to buy a memento of your holiday in Aiguablava, you’ll find the inexpensive, yet characteristic items for sale at the Parador Hotel gift shop may well be just what you’re looking for.
The Local Supermarket
When holidaying in self-catering villas it’s paramount to have a well-stocked supermarket close by. Dining out at elegant, contemporary restaurants or grabbing a delicious bite at rustic beachside bars is something that every holiday-maker will certainly experience, but what of the nights’ when you return from an exploratory excursion and just want to relax and enjoy a home-cooked meal?
Fortunately, for anyone staying in Aiguablava, amongst the narrow, winding roads and local beaches, there’s a supermarket with a wealth of fresh produce and cupboard food. Rustle up a traditional Spanish dish, grill fish or flex your culinary muscles cooking pasta or paella for the whole family.
Visit the local supermarket in Aiguablava and you’ll discover all the ingredients you’ll need to make sure that the whole family is well-fed throughout the duration of your stay in Aiguablava.
Parc d’Aro Shopping Centre
Having a small number of shops within walking distance of your villa is handy but, there can be occasions on holiday when making the trip to a larger shopping centre is necessary. Luckily, for anyone staying in a self-catering villa is Aiguablava, there’s the Par d’Aro shopping centre.
Located just over twenty-minutes away, the Parc d’Aro shopping centre is a large shopping complex with a wealth of stores holiday-makers can explore. Here you’ll find a Lidl and Aldi supermarket, a handful of family-friendly restaurants, homeware stores, even clothing outlets for the whole family.
Whether you need something specific or fancy a mooch around the stores, you’ll discover a great selection shops at the Parc d’Aro shopping centre. Stroll around the designer clothing boutiques native to Spain and that are international. Clothes, shoes, jewellery and accessories each fill the shelves. Brand including, Swatch, Mango, Massimo Dutti, Natura and Swarovski are well-represented at attractive prices.
Visit Aiguablava and you’ll be treated to contrasting shopping opportunities. Quaint, coastal shops complement large brand boutiques found in shopping centres. You’ll discover recognisable supermarket chains which stock everything you’ll need for a self-catering holiday, and quintessential local Spanish supermarkets with ingredients to cook the perfect Spanish meal. Just make sure that you bring enough spending money!
A small, sleepy bay on the Costa Brava, you’d be forgiven for not automatically assuming that Aiguablava in Girona, Catalonia hardly comes alive when dusk descends. Though, it may not have the raucous reputation of bustling and feverish Spanish resorts, Aiguablava – and the surrounding region – still has much to keep holiday-makers occupied if they don’t want to turn in for the night as soon the moon ascends over the evening.
This quaint Spanish town offers visitors the chance to soak up the atmosphere reverent of Spanish ambiance. Visit Aiguablava and you’ll discover restaurants serving delicious seafood and tapas and a handful of bars and pubs where you can sip a Cervaza or sangria as you relax on a terrace and drink in the atmosphere.
Interested in learning what the best nightlife hotspots are in and around Aiguablava? Intent on venturing out in the evening, making the most of your holiday to this quintessentially Spanish town? Here are a handful of nightlife hotspots that you should make a point to visit.
Toc Almar Restaurant
Situated on one of the most beautiful beaches on the Costa Brava lies the Toc Almar restaurant. Serving authentic Mediterranean cuisine and specialising in oak grilled fish – the only wild fish caught by Aiguablava fishing boats, Toc Almar is a mecca that gastronomists in visiting Aiguablava need to experience.
Open from March till November each year, Toc Almar serves up morning snacks and afternoon lunches right on Aiguablava beach. As tempting as the afternoon menu is, it’s the evening that holiday-makers find to be tantalisingly difficult to resist.
Luring diners with their signature dishes, including sea bream, sea bass, snappers, scorpion fish, and grilled octopus, black and lobster rice, it’s not hard to see why Toc Almar is an Aiguablava institution.
Hotel Aigua Blava Restaurant
An elegant eatery with spectacular views over the Bay of Aiguablava, Hotel Aigua Blava Restaurant has proven to be highly popular with the thousands of tourists who flock to Aiguablava every year.
The hotel’s restaurant offers a varied dining experience throughout the week, serving traditional Catalan cuisine with fresh, seasonal ingredients. Visit Hotel Aigua Blava Restaurant and choose from their Restaurant Menu, Seasonal Menu and Daily Set Menu.
Dine on delicious tapas, a range of starters to appease even the most discerning of palates, delectable main courses – some of the freshest seafood you’re likely to sample and scrumptious desserts that will leave you full and satisfied as the evening draws to a close.
Head chef at Hotel Aigua Blava Restaurant, Lluis Ferres is famed for creating textured dishes with creative flavour profiles, yet all with a distinctive Catalan identity. Fresh regional produce, sourced from local merchants is always on the menu, as is a diverse culinary experience that holiday-makers need to sample.
Sardana Dancing on the Plaça de la Vila
A consummate aspect of Catalan culture, Sardana dancing has a storied history of weaving in and out of popularity in Catalonia, yet it remains fundamental to the cultural identity of the region. Visit Aiguablava and you can get a taste of this rhythmic dancing in the evening if you visit the Placa de la Vila.
Men and women alike choregraph dance moves by holding hands and standing in a circle. The roots of Sardana are often attributed to Ancient Greece, though it’s the Catalan Sardana that represents the evolution of this pulsating dance.
Visit Placa de la Vila when dusk settles and, if you’re lucky, you’ll discover blissful people dancing the Sardana, with a Spanish band playing setting the rhythm in the background. There are few more enjoyable ways to get a true taste of Catalan culture.
Bar Musical La Bodeguita Del Medio Cocktail Bar
Venture into nearby Begur, less than eight minutes away and you’ll discover a smattering of nightlife venues to grab a Cerveza or sangria at. Depending on the season and time of night, some can be a tad subdued, whereas others appear positively rapacious with laughter and fun.
Bar Musical La Bodeguita is one cocktail bar in nearby Begur that is a must-visit when you’re not quite ready to turn in for the night. Famed for offering a variety of cocktails and ambient music. Open 24-hours, Bar Musical La Bodeguita this may be a diminutive bar, but it’s one that’s not short on personality and ambiance. Visitors can chat enthusiastically with friends or dance until their heart’s content.
Aiguablava has a varied and entertaining nightlife scene that is sure to appeal to all holiday-makers. Whether you want to sample delicious local cuisine, take in some culture, or fancy a night out on the town, dancing until the small hours of the morning, you’ll find Aiguablava quite accommodating.
Aiguablava is for many people the Costa Brava`s most perfect spot, where the cliffs reach down into a turquoise bay backed by a beach of gently shelving sand. It was here in 1908 that Ferran Agullo first coined the term Costa Brava. Although Aiguablava (its name means `blue water` in Catalan) has been `discovered` and villas are creeping up the hillsides, this remains a good place to experience the Costa Brava as it was before mass tourism took over in the more southern resorts.
Haven On Earth have an excellent selection of villas with private pools in Aiguablava, as well as apartments in smart developments such as Cap Rubi and Los Oliveres. The villas we have in Aiguablava range from 2 bedrooms to 6 bedrooms. We have a selection of smart, modern villas in this area, offering a contemporary feel to your holiday and for those looking for more of a traditional experience we have older villas which do tend to be better value for those who don’t mind a rustic feel.
Platja Fonda: Platja Fonda can be reached via the coastal footpath from Fornells. The beach is approximately 130m long, has coarse, dark sand and is quite low down in comparison to the path, meaning that it is reached by a long set of steps. The beach remains unspoilt and wild thanks to its access.
Platja de Fornells: Fornells is well known for its small harbour and can be easily reached from >Begur by road and also via the coastal path that runs between >Aiguablava and Fornells. Fornells enjoys favourable weather conditions making it a pleasant holiday location. The original beauty and charm of Fornells has not been lost despite it becoming more residencial. Fornells is also a great place for fishing. At each side of Fornells there are two small coves: `Ses Orats` and `Can Malaret`.
"Three miles to the north, the triple whammy of Aiguablava, Fornells and Platja Fonda will spark a best-beach debate..." Extract from `The Perfect Spanish Costa` by Chris Haslam from The Times January 13, 2008
Platja d`Aiguablava: >Aiguablava is for many people the Costa Brava`s most perfect spot, where the cliffs reach down into a turquoise bay backed by a beach of gently shelving sand. The beach offers fine, light-coloured sand and beautiful shallow waters – a perfect setting for any holiday maker. The beach of >Aiguablava is easily reached by road with good parking facilities. The beach is one of the most popular beaches not only in >Begur, but the whole of Catalonia. Over the years many artists and writers have depicted this wonderful location in their works.
"Aiguablava: The setting here — a sunset-pink rocky inlet where little boats ride on Smartie-coloured buoys against an amphitheatre of green hills — is Mediterranean perfection." Extract from `The wilder side of the Costa Brava` by David Wickers from The Times, June 26, 2005
Aiguablava seems immune to change; probably why it is still among our preferred destinations on the Costa Brava. As we approach, we pass through lush vegetation and catch glimpses here and there of resplendent, well-hidden private houses dotting the hills. At times the ascent from the waterfront is so steep that construction is virtually impossible; and yet the government-sponsored Parador de Aiguablava crowns one of the highest rocky crags. The hotel, modern and spare in style and well over 30 years old, takes a back seat to the vertiginous views. The hotel pool, at the edge of the precipice, is perfectly situated. In the evening, lights sparkle from the houses in the surrounding hills, and we briefly contemplate staying put but we can`t resist exploring nearby villages and their own coves: Tamari, Aigua Xelida, Sa Tuna, Aiguafreda, and Llafranc, where the simple but immaculate little Hotel Llafranc sits along the tree-shaded seaside promenade.
When we returned to the Costa Brava in October, we checked into Mas de Torrent, a few miles inland from Aiguablava. The hotel was at the vanguard of a wave of small deluxe hotels sprouting in Spain. An 18th-century masia (Catalonian manor house) in the countryside, exquisitely refurbished; the hotel is ideally situated to take advantage of both the coast and the rural interior. While here we direct our attention inward, visiting beautifully preserved medieval towns like Peratallada, with cobbled streets, covered passageways and an 11th-century castle (now a deluxe hotel with eight guest rooms), and Pals, former fief of feudal lords that was rediscovered by city folk who have splendidly restored the houses as weekend retreats. We are especially charmed by the isolated town of Monells and its singular Plaza Mayor, from which multiarched porticoed streets, tunnel-like passageways and alleyways emerge at odd angles.