GIRONA

Girona Background

The ancient walled city of GIRONA - (an hour and twenty minutes by bus or train from Barcelona and 45mins drive time from Begur) - stands on a fortress-like hill, high above the River Onyar. It`s been fought over in almost every century since it was the Roman fortress of Gerunda on the Via Augusta, and perhaps more than any other place in Catalunya, it retains the distinct flavour of its erstwhile inhabitants.

Following the Moorish conquest of Spain, Girona was an Arab town for over two hundred years, a fact apparent in the maze of narrow streets in the centre, and there was also a continuous Jewish presence here for six hundred years. By the eighteenth century, Girona had been besieged on 21 occasions, and in the nineteenth century it earned itself the nickname "Immortal" by surviving five attacks, of which the longest was a seven-month assault by the French in 1809. Not surprisingly, all this attention has bequeathed the city a hotchpotch of architectural styles, from Roman classicism to modernism, yet the overall impression for the visitor is of an overwhelmingly beautiful medieval city, whose attraction is heightened by its river setting.

Girona`s chic bars and restaurants are grouped on c/de la Forca in the centre of the old city, on and around the riverside Rambla Llibertat and on the parallel Placa del Vi the last two places being where you`ll also find the best daytime cafes with outdoor seating. Another little enclave of restaurants with good menus del dia is over the river in Placa de la Independencia.

L`Arc, Pl de la Catedral 9. Friendly bar serving snacks and sandwiches at the foot of the cathedral steps.

L`Arcada, Rambla Llibertat 38. Bar-restaurant situated underneath the arcade with a pleasant old-time interior, and serving good breakfast pastries in the morning. Outdoor tables are a nice place to relax in summer.

Bar La Placeta, c/Buenaventura Carreras i Peralta 7 (between Pl l`Oli and c/de la Forca). Small bar frequented by a young trendy crowd. Open evenings.

Boira, Pl de la Independencia 17. The best food on the square and very popular with locals and visitors who like a very Catalan menu.

Cafe Le Bistrot, Pujada de Sant Dominec. Snacks, crepes and drinks either outside on the steps below the church, or inside in cool, jazzy surroundings.

Cafeteria Sol, Pl del Vi. Stylish hangout for tapas and snacks, with seats indoors or in the arcade.

La Penyora, c/Nou del Teatre 3. Staunchly Catalan restaurant hidden away and worth seeking out. There`s a menï del dia and a reasonable if limited a la carte choice. Closed Tues.

El Pou del Call, c/de la Forca 14. Good local food and wine right in the Jewish quarter in a very pleasant and friendly restaurant. Closed Sun night.